Sunrise session with minimal crowds, game on.
I haven’t seen the ocean churning like it was this morning in a long time, we’ve had a massive snow year without having any significant winter swells. It has been a pretty busy spring as far as surfing goes, a swell each week for the last month or two. The buoys were reading 15ft+ this morning and it showed at the beach, a massive washing machine all over. Finally a few guys decided to give it a go at the Rocks and across the way at Linkys. Broken boards, barrels and beach weather make for an awesome day. I’m not going to touch on the crowded roads or the insane parking jobs that I saw today because I know it’s going to get worse as the summer goes on. I will mention that it’s important to be safe, if you have any doubts about going into big surf on any particular day…think twice and choose another day, there will always be waves NEXT spring!
Below slideshow photos (except for two landscape photos that I cannot seem to be able to remove) by: Lucas Van Oss (alpine live media)
8-13-10 — 8:00pm UPDATE:
Well things are starting to come together. The models are showing that the storm is going to make a pass by the northeast. This should give us long period swell starting on Thursday/Friday and fading out on Wednesday. THAT’S ALMOST A WEEK OF SWELL! Excuse my excitement, I’m stoked to be surfing without the massive amount of tourists. I wanna be able to park at my favorite spot without people parked on the grass and in every illegal place possible. Igor is a Category 4 Hurricane at the moment but is quickly strengthening, another important tidbit is that it’s moving very slowly, that is why the swell is forecasted to stick around so long. We still aren’t clear on wave sizes, don’t go getting your 7″6′ pin all waxed up ’cause as of now it ain’t gonna get that big but we will see some head high+ and it will be much less crowded than the last 5 months. I will also add that we could see swell periods around 17 seconds which means you’ll have to hit up some Google Earth or find your secret spot because it’ll be closin’ the beaches out. A long point or offshore reef will be your best bet. Much more information will be available tomorrow into Wednesday. CHEERS!
Could be some solid swell towards the end of the week. Igor has developed into a Hurricane and will continue to head northwest up the coast. More accurate information will be available tomorrow and in coming days as the storm gets closer. Another tropical storm has developed right behind Igor, Tropical Depression Twelve should have enough room behind Igor to develop on it’s own.
The tropics are really starting to crank, we’ve had storm after storm developing off of Africa and we’ll see these next three active in the North Atlantic over the weekend. Check out this forecast for Earl, Fiona and Gaston. Bring it!